Dan Washburn's Shanghai Diaries

Shanghai —> Beijing —> Yunnan —> Shanghai

Ever since The Trip, I’ve been getting a lot of emails looking for advice on traveling in China (which reminds me … I need to respond to some of those). Now, I’d like to turn the tables and get some advice from my readers. I get back from Honolulu on February 16. And then, on February 20, these freaks — Brian and Jill — fly into Shanghai from the Dirty South (Atlanta, not Guangzhou). They’ve got a little less than two weeks in China, and we have decided to fly all over the place. Here is a look at our itinerary:

Feb. 20-22: Shanghai
Feb. 23-25: Beijing
Feb. 26-Mar. 4: Yunnan
Mar. 5: Back to ATL

My questions to you are:

• In Beijing, we will do some of the obvious things: Forbidden City and The Great Wall. But what section of the wall do you recommend? I went to Simitai back in August because I thought it was one of the less touristy sections — and then I found out that it had a cable car. Also, this time of year, I suppose weather will be an issue … so keep that in mind.
• What is worth checking out in Beijing that’s not mentioned in the guidebooks? I’m talking about stuff that only the locals — and local expats — know about. We’ve only got two-and-a-half days.
• If you only had six days in Yunnan, what the hell would you do (after you got done crying about the fact that you only had six days)?
• My friends have shown an interest in Zhongdian, because they would like to get a Tibetan feel without actually entering Tibet. So, we might head straight to Lijiang and spend most of our time in Yunnan’s northwest. Weather-wise is this a wise thing to do? (Looks like it gets pretty damn cold there at night.) Any suggestions for getting away from the hordes in that part of the country? Any Zhongdian-specific suggestions?
• Or should we just say f**k it, head to Ruili and shoot up every day?

Thanks in advance for your help. You can either leave you comments down below for everyone to see or, if you are shy, you can email me privately at dan @ danwashburn.com.

Also, let me know if you happen to be where we plan to be. Maybe we can get together.

See you on the road … again.

[My apologies to Rick Lacey, whoever you are. It’s late and your book cover was the only image I could find to go with this post. And yes, I am aware that an “RV Adventure Across America” has very little to do with a plane trip through China. As I said, it’s late. Sue me. Wait … don’t sue me.]

02.03.2005, 7:25 PM · Travel

11 Comments

1. On Feb 5, 2005 5:48 AM, Elaine said:
   

   ooh… Yunan.
   GREAT place and such wonderful people. The last time I was there, we went to Zhongdian and got invited into one of those Tibetan homes to drink Yak butter milk.

   Yak butter milk may be one of the nastiest things I’ve ever tasted in my life. It was like… really creamy salt water. And even thinking about it now, I gag. But try it for the experience!

   Hiking was wonderful, even if I’m not that great a fan of hiking. When you get high enough in the mountains, you get to see all the clouds forming below you and… wow. If you do go hiking, be sure to bring a really really thick sleeping bag. Our tour guide took us into these nomadic wood cabins to sleep and we, being idiots, put out the fire halfway through the night because it was blowing smoke in our faces… the other half of the night was spent cuddling together trying not to die of hypothermia.

   And ALWAYS WASH YOUR HANDS BEFORE YOU EAT ANYTHING (bring Purell)! Nothing like getting the stomach flu in the middle of the mountains.

2. On Feb 5, 2005 11:23 AM, Gemme said:
   

   6 days in Yunnan is definitely not a lot.
   Like the post before I’d recommend Zhongdian. It will be cold and the new part of the city is crap, the old part is not bad and once you go out of the city it’s great. Beautiful nature, pretty tasty yak tea and if you do an organized the Tibet cafe can help you out (see also http://www.chinabackpacker.com/destinations/yunnan/zhongdian.htm)
   You might even get unlimited coffee in one of the farms. Unlimited meaning they keep adding water to your original cup with nescafe.
   Lijiang is nice thouhg very touristic. You can try the surrounding villages like Baisha to get a more authentic idea.
   Kunming is a great city for laid back living but culturally has nothing to offer. Although sipping 3 kuai espressos is not bad at all.
   

3. On Feb 5, 2005 2:58 PM, Elisha said:
   

   Hi,Dan
   I’ve been to Yunan before for 14 days.Zhongdian(or Shangri-la) is nice, but it’s not one of the places in Yunan I can STRONGLY recommend. In terms of natural scenery and “the feel of minority groups”,I think Lugu Lake(Lige village) and Yubeng (in the northwest near Meili Mount.)are definitely better places to be!I know you’ve been to Lugu Lake before, and I’ve been looking forward to your journal on your visit there!
   

4. On Feb 5, 2005 11:38 PM, Henry Huang said:
   

   Hi Dan:
   What’s your phone# in Hawaii?? E-mail it to me plz. I’d like to give you a call or you can reach me at 404-421-2863. Which team are you rooting for Sunday Super Bowl ??
   

5. On Feb 10, 2005 9:54 PM, Melanie said:
   

   Just a bit of recommended reading for those embarking on a China rad trip- “Red Dust” by Ma Jian. He is China’s answer to Jack Kerouac.

6. On Feb 14, 2005 11:15 PM, Cellocello said:
   

   Hi Dan,

   Re:Beijing,

   If your friends are into mordern arts, you might like to visit 798 Space,which is transformed from an abandoned workshop.

   Check out their website: http://www.798space.com/

7. On Feb 15, 2005 3:39 AM, dan said:
   

   Elaine,

   Not in a huge hurry to try yak butter tea again.

   What time of year did you go to Zhongdian?

   I’ve been in warm Hawaii for the past month. I wonder if Zhongdian in February would be too much of a shock to my system.

   Dan

8. On Feb 15, 2005 3:42 AM, dan said:
   

   We still haven’t decided on Zhongdian for sure, but does anyone have any hotels/guesthouses/hostels you would recommend there? Perhaps something with heat?

   Same thing for Beijing. Any places with some character that a) wouldn’t break the bank and b) wouldn’t scare off first-time China travelers?

   Thanks!

9. On Feb 20, 2005 1:02 PM, Henry said:
   

   Just spent 6 days in Yunnan myself!

   Met two friends in Kunming, caught a bus to Dali, next day another bus to Lijiang, short bus to Tiger leaping Gorge, hiking for two days (guesthouses along the gorge), bus back to Lijiang, flight back to Kunming.

   The two days hiking were really the best that I’ve ever done … not strenuous, but quiet and an amazing environment …

   I liked Lijiang more then Dali, it seems there is more non-tourism-based life there . . but honestly we didn’t spend enough time in Dali to get much of an impression.

   There is a small airport about a half-hour from lijiang, it might be worth it to fly from Kunming to lijiang, saves about 12 hours of uncomfortable bus rides. (early january the road from Kunming to Dali was still under construction, ooph!) The plane ticket cost … oh, about rmb450 (compared to maybe 150 for the overnight bus)

   I think Lijiang is just a couple hours from Zhongdian, didn’t go there myself.

10. On Feb 22, 2005 1:33 AM, savage said:
    

    Dear Dan,

    you may find some information about TRAVEL in China from the following website:http://en.chinabroadcast.cn/

    hope it works!

    :)

11. On Mar 5, 2005 10:03 AM, Zhang Liping said:
    

    http://sevencastles.blogchina.com
    A Shanghai blog featuring news and views of great interest